Thodikana visit
We are back in Sullia today after traversing the rather grueling roads to Thodikana. mom is feeling a bit under the weather because she did not pre-medicate with Dramamine. It's only 15 km away from here, but the roads are indescribably bad and it takes about an hour. The roads were paved, or at least parts of them were, about 4 or 5 years back, but the monsoons have washed away all the blacktop and there are huge ruts and potholes on a one lane roadbed of grapefruit-sized granite rocks.
Anyway, we had a nice visit with his granny and aunt/uncle/cousin. They have one of the nicest houses you will ever see in India, and they are most welcoming and friendly, despite the rather large language barrier. We also visited several of his granny's brothers families (she comes from a family of 9), several of whom live on neighboring estates. They all were welcoming and ceremoniously brought us tea and snacks. One of his great-uncles showed us his entire house, including the storage rooms and the attic. He also showed us the rubber processing equipment (they grow rubber trees) and old cooking implements in the storeroom. I think this was all for our benefit since obviously Avinash's auntie and uncle had seen it many times before.
Mom got to tour the plantation as well, and saw her first crops of areca nut (betel nut), banana, coconut, rubber, cashew, cocoa, black pepper, cardamom, etc up close.
We went to a nearby waterfall in the bordering Coorg region by Jeep. Avinash's relatives hired a professional Jeep driver to take us there, although it was not far, in deference to Mom. We had hiked there last year, but it is a rather grueling climb in the rain-forest conditions of heat and humidity and not for the faint-hearted.
We had to traverse two rivers to get there, and since there was no bridge at either place, the Jeep forded the river both times. Apparently that is the only way that this isolated (cut off by three rivers) area was accessible until fairly recently, since there were no bridges before about 10 or 15 years ago. That is also apparently the reason why the estates had to be self-sufficient during the rainy season and also why everyone is so closely intermarried in his family!
The waterfall is an interesting walk through the forest and across several streams. We had to wade across at one point, even Ani's mom and auntie in their beautiful saris (I was wearing the practical salwar-kameez for the occasion). We enjoyed seeing the tropical waterfall and the relatively cooler temperatures up the mountain. Only on the way back did Avinash mention that in the water next to where we had all stepped was a snake with a triangular-shaped head (poisionous!).
We stopped at the local temple on the way home and viewed a pooja ceremony. Avinash had never actually seen one so it was new to all of us. It took place after nightfall, with 4 or 5 priests in lungis and sacred strings leading the affair. Avinash and his cousin had to remove their shirts and leather belts. Avinash said that he was worried his pants were going to fall down the entire time! Fortunately, we ladies could leave our shirts on. ;)
Everyone clanged a bell to the beat of a drum (there were many bells, all different pitches, located overhead). This went on for about 5 minutes, with the drum beating faster and faster until a dramatic climax. There were oil lamps waved in circles in from of the temple deity, which had been draped with flowers as is customary. Then the temple priests took the deity statue out for a walk, going around the inner sanctum of the temple about 10 times and back again all to the beat of a drum. Then they took the deity outside for a walk and circumnavigated the temple around the inner courtyard for about 5 minutes. Then back inside they came, and the drum beats started to accellerate once again. Then it was time to ring the bells overhead while they put the deity back in the sanctum sactorum and extinguished the lamps to a final clamor of drums and bells.
This morning we made our way back to Sullia after a round of visits to relatives. Even the dogs here are all inter-related! Since we don't all fit in the little car, Ani's other granny (his dad's mom) is coming back to Sullia later on.
That's all the news from here. Glad the little Ponies are working out well. Freecycle is great for both the donor and the recipient, since everyone is happy knowing items are put to a good use! Thanks for the dog and cat news also - Darwin gets dirty very easily and needs frequent grooming. It was sweet of Melissa to help out.
love
Linda and Mom
Anyway, we had a nice visit with his granny and aunt/uncle/cousin. They have one of the nicest houses you will ever see in India, and they are most welcoming and friendly, despite the rather large language barrier. We also visited several of his granny's brothers families (she comes from a family of 9), several of whom live on neighboring estates. They all were welcoming and ceremoniously brought us tea and snacks. One of his great-uncles showed us his entire house, including the storage rooms and the attic. He also showed us the rubber processing equipment (they grow rubber trees) and old cooking implements in the storeroom. I think this was all for our benefit since obviously Avinash's auntie and uncle had seen it many times before.
Mom got to tour the plantation as well, and saw her first crops of areca nut (betel nut), banana, coconut, rubber, cashew, cocoa, black pepper, cardamom, etc up close.
We went to a nearby waterfall in the bordering Coorg region by Jeep. Avinash's relatives hired a professional Jeep driver to take us there, although it was not far, in deference to Mom. We had hiked there last year, but it is a rather grueling climb in the rain-forest conditions of heat and humidity and not for the faint-hearted.
We had to traverse two rivers to get there, and since there was no bridge at either place, the Jeep forded the river both times. Apparently that is the only way that this isolated (cut off by three rivers) area was accessible until fairly recently, since there were no bridges before about 10 or 15 years ago. That is also apparently the reason why the estates had to be self-sufficient during the rainy season and also why everyone is so closely intermarried in his family!
The waterfall is an interesting walk through the forest and across several streams. We had to wade across at one point, even Ani's mom and auntie in their beautiful saris (I was wearing the practical salwar-kameez for the occasion). We enjoyed seeing the tropical waterfall and the relatively cooler temperatures up the mountain. Only on the way back did Avinash mention that in the water next to where we had all stepped was a snake with a triangular-shaped head (poisionous!).
We stopped at the local temple on the way home and viewed a pooja ceremony. Avinash had never actually seen one so it was new to all of us. It took place after nightfall, with 4 or 5 priests in lungis and sacred strings leading the affair. Avinash and his cousin had to remove their shirts and leather belts. Avinash said that he was worried his pants were going to fall down the entire time! Fortunately, we ladies could leave our shirts on. ;)
Everyone clanged a bell to the beat of a drum (there were many bells, all different pitches, located overhead). This went on for about 5 minutes, with the drum beating faster and faster until a dramatic climax. There were oil lamps waved in circles in from of the temple deity, which had been draped with flowers as is customary. Then the temple priests took the deity statue out for a walk, going around the inner sanctum of the temple about 10 times and back again all to the beat of a drum. Then they took the deity outside for a walk and circumnavigated the temple around the inner courtyard for about 5 minutes. Then back inside they came, and the drum beats started to accellerate once again. Then it was time to ring the bells overhead while they put the deity back in the sanctum sactorum and extinguished the lamps to a final clamor of drums and bells.
This morning we made our way back to Sullia after a round of visits to relatives. Even the dogs here are all inter-related! Since we don't all fit in the little car, Ani's other granny (his dad's mom) is coming back to Sullia later on.
That's all the news from here. Glad the little Ponies are working out well. Freecycle is great for both the donor and the recipient, since everyone is happy knowing items are put to a good use! Thanks for the dog and cat news also - Darwin gets dirty very easily and needs frequent grooming. It was sweet of Melissa to help out.
love
Linda and Mom
posted by Linda at 4:59 AM
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